No need to overthink things at this unassuming Edmonds strip-mall joint that specializes in food from Shaanxi Province: Just get the hot oil seared biang biang noodles. Coated in a simple, smoky chili oil, these wide ribbons of dough are probably all you need in life (or for dinner, anyway). Should you require more, there are other toppings—including rich cumin beef with jalapenos, and tomato and egg—as well as a solid lineup of non-noodle items, like grilled lamb skewers, chilled slices of beef tendon, and meaty flatbread sandwiches. You’ll need to enlist a crowd for the chicken on a big plate, a fragrant mess of bone-in meat, potatoes and whole spices (and noodles if you want, which you do). JENN CAMPBELL