This grocery is, for me, the heart of Beacon Hill. It’s compact, always busy, cheap, and has a terrific deli that offers a variety of popular Filipino dishes and lots of deep-fried things: shrimp, spring rolls, chicken, salmon fat and bones, and the fish that is beloved by the global south, the tilapia. If you are like me, you will particularly love the fried tail of the tilapia. It forms the main part of the reason I visit the deli. It is beautifully brittle and, once bitten, surrenders with a resounding crunch, like dead leaves on a summer day. CHARLES MUDEDE