Good Thai food abounds in Seattle, but Phinney Ridge’s Mai Thaiku leads the charge to greatness. While the kitchen dabbles expertly in popular favorites like pad thai and chicken satay, most of the menu takes under-sung Thai specialties and knocks them out of the park. The half-dozen styles of papaya salad cater to every taste—as long as it includes the zing of green papaya and lime. Raw prawns in lime juice with bitter melon bite like ceviche, and diners can play with their food by wrapping wild pepper leaves around ginger, lime, onion, peanuts, and coconut for the snack called mieng kahm. NAOMI TOMKY