Some say Assimba’s the best place in town for Ethiopian food. Try the meat combo—along with stewed lamb and beef, it also includes curried cabbage and potatoes and tender collard greens. A dish of roasted yellow peas with garlic, a thick purée to dunk your injera into, is soft but not simple. The oppressively well-lit dining room might be decorated with old travel posters and paintings of a cross-eyed Haile Selassie, but the dishes are spiced aggressively, with a richness, smokiness, and complexity to them. Don’t forget to try the house-made tea.