How did you become a rowdy cowgirl, and why serve only barbecue?

I've always loved barbecue because it's the ultimate people's food; every region has its version. All you need is a cheap cut of meat and the time and attention to make it taste great. People have been doing that for ages. So I went on a barbecue tour, hit the six major regions of barbecue, and designed my sauce from there.

What constitutes a "barbecue tour"?

My best friend and I toured the South and we'd talk to anyone—gas-station attendants, dollar-store employees—who is passionate about barbecue. They'd direct us to the best barbecue in the region, which was mostly prepared by middle-aged African-American men who'd been barbecuing for 40 years. They didn't treat it like a secret or a competition; they were eager to share their techniques with us.

So what are the six major regions of barbecue?

Texas is primarily beef with a sweet tomato base, and I didn't want that. The Carolinas are known for a vinegar base with some heat; Kansas City will smoke anything; Memphis-style is a dry rub followed by a dry smoke; Georgia specializes in a mayonnaise-based white sauce; and in Mississippi and Alabama you hit a BBQ vortex—a little tomato, a little heat, some vinegar. That's what I designed my sauce after.

Does the Rowdy Cowgirl offer anything but horror for vegetarians?

Yes! We offer a barbecued pulled-Portobello sandwich. The mushrooms are treated and smoked just like our meat, and topped with homemade barbecue sauce. It's delicious!