Arriving at the lower Queen Anne establishment, we spied a "Figaro Valet Parking" sign right in front. "Great, we won't have to fight Sonics and opera traffic!" we said as we wheeled in. Later we learned that Figaro, in a touch of French authenticity, employs the old Parisian bait-and-switch valet scam, where they pretend it's valet, then take your car to an entirely different establishment's valet down the street. After paying our bill, we presented our valet claim ticket to the Figaro bartender, only to be told, "Oh no sir, YOU have to get your car." But we don't even know where it is! "Sir, we just take it away; you have to go get it. It's at a place around the corner." It must be a French thing.
But back to the meal. Figaro is pleasant enough, with an authentic-looking, black-and-white-checked bistro floor; potted trees; and oversized oil paintings on the walls. Started by native Frenchmen Laurent Gabrel and Philippe Bollache, Figaro's menu is modeled after the casual bistro food of their boyhoods. If the service is also modeled after French bistros, we must conclude that the French generally have a lot of spare time.
We wade into Figaro at one of its most hectic moments: Both the Sonics and the opera are on Seattle's agenda. The maitre d' seems quite empathetic, suggesting we cool our heels in the bar for a few minutes until the madness clears. Appreciating his concern, we confidently knock back a glass of smooth and soft-edged Fortant de France Merlot ($5.50), an endearing representative of a laudable wine-by-the-glass list.
As the entertainment-world witching hour (7:30 p.m.) approaches, the room clears quickly, allowing us to be seated. Our server has a languid and prim style, and scoffs at the previous crowds. We begin with carrot and ginger soup ($5.95), which proves to be a promising starter. The ginger makes its presence known in this spicy opener, giving the soup zesty charm, while just a touch of cream functions as a flavor-binder. A salad of wild greens ($7.95) is all dressed up with glazed walnuts, a tart vinaigrette, and a suitably small medallion of goat cheese. Each leaf is evenly coated with dressing, testifying to the kitchen's impeccable green-washing procedures.
Figaro's finest moment is the arrival of a splendid Coquilles St. Jacques ($14.95), with its rich and creamy oyster, mushroom, and leek sauce. Wondrous angel hair is corner-studded with four largish scallops, all slightly crusty from rapid broiling. The scallops are perfectly cooked, peeling apart as easily as a roll of fresh string cheese.
Steak Frites ($15.95), showcasing a grilled New York steak served with herbed garlic butter and French fries, was really the reason for our presence at Figaro. On a previous visit, both steak and fries were no less than perfect, bringing to mind a 1962 trip to Paris. This time, slightly soggy fries lay adjacent the steak and its large knob of fat (was this to be used as a slinging handle for old fashioned French meat-tossing?). Sadly, neither steak nor fries lived up to our dreams, reminding us that perhaps a food enjoyed once is better remembered twice than nostalgically revisited.
Figaro Bistro
11 Roy St, 284-6465. Tues-Sun 5-10 pm, closed Mon. Full bar. $$.
Price Scale (per entrée)
$ = $10 and under; $$ = $10-20; $$$ = $20 and up
