Manna Smoked BBQ
10410 Holman Rd N, 782-5491
Mon-Sat, 11 am-9 pm.

It's not fair, really. Texas, a state that's produced all manner of great things, up and elects a boob for governor, who then wrangles himself a job as president but botches the deal. For me, everything from the Lone Star State has since had to labor under the stink-by-association of W.

Fortunately, barbecue is too mighty to be brought down by a mere failed businessman turned failed president. Just look at Manna Smoked BBQ. The folks there have been delivering Texas-style goods since 1987--before Daddy Bush went down south for a little dictator hunting--and they're still going strong.

Philosophers will forever argue about what exactly Texas-style barbecue is. A popular notion is that it's beef centered--brisket, ribs, sausages--and served without sauce, so the flavor of the meat and smoke comes through.

Although Manna's barbecue is topped with sauce (unless you ask for it on the side), purists will be happy to know that everything is slow-cooked the way God intended, with mesquite used for the brisket ($6.95 for the "light plate," with corn bread and a side) and hickory for the ribs ($6.45 for two beef ribs, with corn bread and a side). The sauce is dark red and tangy, but not so ridiculously hot that you can't taste the meat (although there's a hot variety too). While the beef's certainly good, Manna's tender, smoky baby-back pork ribs ($8.95 for a half pound, with corn bread and a side) were this non-Texan's favorite. You can also get chopped pork, sliced turkey, sandwiches, and "Texas spuds," all in various combos or by their lonesome.

Speaking of lonesome, didn't our melon-headed smirkmeister say in the debates that he met the love of his life at a Texas barbecue? What better testament to the power of that still-venerable culinary tradition?