Open daily 6 am-7 pm.

Obviously, if you need an iced sheet cake, this is the place you want, and the bonus is the status symbol of that ladylike pink box. What is less obvious is that Remo Borracchini's is not a bad place to have lunch. It's not terribly atmospheric--you eat in among cans of soup and bottles of mustard--but this is, after all, the deli section of a particularly good specialty market. Here, in a deli case stocked with very good-looking meats (including my personal favorite, mortadella), there are sandwiches to be grilled (plain meat and cheese combinations arrive beautifully ridged and browned), pizzas to take home and bake, and a variety of hot dishes and cold salads to buy by the pound.

It looks like cafeteria food, but good ingredients are in evidence everywhere, and much of it is delicious. What I adored were the sausages ($5.99/lb), which were dense, herby, generously flecked with caraway, and served in a rather rich tomato sauce (the beef-and-rice-stuffed cabbage and peppers, $4.99, had an odd sweet tinge that I didn't much like). Cheese-and-ground-veal-stuffed manicotti ($5.99/lb), on the other hand, had a nice delicate flavor, as did a hearty barley soup ($1.49 for a generous small bowl) with a surprise: little nuggets of pancetta, instead of ham. On the cold side, delicious olive oil was the signature for the dressing of a bright vegetable salad ($4.99/lb).

The rather sizable drawback to eating at Borracchini's is that the food is warmed in a microwave by the people at the deli counter, and almost everything I tasted was underheated. It doesn't take an inordinate amount of finicky sensibility to be annoyed by this, so either insist on extra microwave time, or buy the food to go and heat it at home. If you're not troubled by ethics, you can pretend you made it yourself.