What makes these fish fillets, oysters, squid, and shrimp so special is the pleasingly non-greasy, light, and crispy breading (a Greek secret?). These tender ocean gems only visit the deep fat fryer; they don't live there. The lightness creates a celebratory spirit, making the meal feel special and even healthy.
Further Greek influences include the Greek Salad ($4.85); although slightly over-lettuced with iceberg, romaine, and red cabbage, this naturally crisp opener is tightly packed with crunchy cucumbers, long and attractive strands of green pepper, and mountains of feta. A pungent olive oil and vinegar dressing features a heavy oregano bouquet, while minuscule bits of chopped olive lend a country feel to the salad. Tart kalamatas stud the mélange, adding both bite and flair to a top-notch version of this Greek classic. Sunfish Clam Chowder ($1.75 for the small size) is hot, creamy, and gets the tummy-warming job done with little ado, letting the potatoes and celery speak for themselves.
The hard-charging Sunfish Special ($7.95) is a knockout fish kabob featuring grilled chunks of halibut and prawns interspersed with seared green pepper and onion. Halibut has always been a Sunfish strong point, and these grilled medallions of the buttery-tasting fish show why. The presence of vegetables in a fish and chips joint must be illegal, yet Sunfish blatantly and expertly showcases them center-stage. This is truly a kabob worthy of praise. The accompanying fries are real potatoes, with chewy innards and crispy skins intact. Like the halibut, these little fellas haven't been near a freezer. This is a premier menu selection for those eschewing deep-fried action, and there is no law saying you have to eat the freshly made, delicious French fries. But if you decide not to, could you put them in an envelope and mail them to us?
Featured on the Combination Plate are three oysters, two prawns, one piece of fish, and fries. Fish choices include halibut or salmon ($6.75), or cod ($6.25). The oysters are exactly as they should be: tiny, lightly breaded, and fried to a moist and golden excellence. Salmon is easily overcooked, but this one knew just when to come out of the fryer, leaving it moist and flavorful.
Fried calamari appears to be made from the giant squid in 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. Its arrival at the next table can't go unnoticed, and our heads quickly snap in the direction of our neighbor's huge pile of tentacles and tubules. In unison, we sigh, "I knew we should have ordered those!" Next time.
Light and smoke-free, this restaurant provides a cheery atmosphere for locals alternately discussing snowboarding attire ("Dude, I got some killer boarding pants!") and the Admiral Pub ("I ain't goin' there on a Friday; it's too crowded"), as well as young West Seattle sophisticates and visitors from across the bridge. Real plants and gargantuan mounted fish on boards complete a decor that reflects the personality of this unusual place.
While beer would be a welcome menu addition (Is there anything finer than frosty, cold, carbonated beer washing down a sizzling piece of halibut?), the pleasant attitude of the staff makes up for the lack of liquid spirits. Although 9:00 p.m. is closing time, customers who arrive at that time are treated warmly and served promptly. Take your fish across the street to enjoy the panoramic view once summer arrives, but for now, enjoy the taste of summer without the crowds.
Sunfish
2800 Alki Avenue SW, 938-4112. Tues-Sun 11 am-9 pm, closed Mon. No booze. $.
Price Scale (per entrée)
$ = $10 and under; $$ = $10-20; $$$ = $20 and up
