8701 S Tacoma Way (Tacoma), 253-588-7899. Open daily 10 am-2 am. $$

This place has about four variations of its name plastered around the room, including Young's, Yong's, and Cockatoo Family Chicken Restaurant. Hilariously, it's anything but a family place: The darkish den sports a full bar that serves an array of sojo (Korean vodka-like liquor). Recently, I crept into the place with its thumping music and flashing lights, and found a compact menu featuring delicious Korean fare, Vietnamese soup, and three types of roasted whole chicken--regular-seasoned, spicy, and fried ($5.95-$10.95).

The waitress/owner brought some lovely barley tea and unbelievably sweet pickled daikon radish cubes (which she referred to as "lettuce"). Later came traditional bul-go-ki ($9.95), its spiciness made to order (Young's hot red paste over the meat is a bit thicker than other restaurants). There's also an array of even hotter fare, including Kimchi Pork and Vegetable Stew ($21.92) and Hot Spicy Soft Tofu Stew ($11.95). Prop yourself up to the bar for a lengthy late-night meal; a close-knit, casual core group of patrons dominates here, making Young's a fun spot. STACEY LEVINE

Six Arms Pub & Brewery

300 E Pike St (Capitol Hill), 223-1698. Mon-Thurs 11 am-1 am, Fri-Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun noon-midnight. $

Chandeliers, huge wooden booths, and a balcony level belie the casual feel, but the biggest surprise here is the exceptionally competent and friendly service--a rare combination in Capitol Hill. Then there's the unbeatable food: Burgers are legendary, from the Dungeon Burger (1/3 pound beef with Swiss cheese, grilled mushrooms, red onions, tomatoes, and "secret sauce," on an onion bun, $5) to the Garden Commie (Gardenburger with Tillamook cheddar, grilled onions, bell peppers, and mushrooms, $7.50). Other favorites are Maria's Smokey Masterpiece (smoked turkey, bacon, and Swiss on sourdough, $7.25), and the Rare Roast Beef Sandwich (with marinated red onions and horseradish sauce, $6.50). Burgs and sandwiches come with Kettle Chips and pepperoncini, but you can get heaps of juicy, golden fries to share for a mere $1.25-$4.75. Hungry yet? Oh yeah, there's also great beer. Duh! MELODY MOSS

Khana Himalayan Lounge

703 North 34th St (Fremont), 632-6685. Mon-Thurs 11am - 10 pm, Fri 11am - 11pm,
Sat noon - 10:30 pm, Sun noon - 9 pm. $$

Leave your vague visions of mysterious mountain-climbing food, burning incense, and ancient tapestries behind. Instead, you'll find a hip, urban interpretation of the cuisines of Nepal, India, and Tibet. Entrées include Tandoori Chicken ($10.95), alongside perfectly done basmati rice and fresh curried green beans. Rubbed with spices and roasted in a tandoor oven, the moist chicken literally glows with a bright neon redness. On the customized entrée list, diners can choose from the rice meals or the bread meals, both served with pickled vegetables and a choice of meat or vegetables. Lamb with Yogurt ($10.50) and mustard greens also makes a superbly filling meal, but strict vegetarians can enjoy Samosas ($3.50), veggie Momo ($5, a Tibetan version of the pot sticker), or even Pappadam, the crunchy, lentil-flour flat bread served with feisty chutney and tamarind that is brought immediately to your table. JIM ANDERSON

Debby's at the Drift on Inn Roadhouse

16708 Aurora Ave N (Shoreline), 546-4144. Open daily, 24 hours. $

Want to get out of town where the cooking is home-style and the casino is Vegas-style? Welcome to Debby's, where you can order anything from Cobb Salad ($7.95) to Prime Rib ($11.95), disco-dance Thursday through Sunday nights, and enjoy a unique '50s interior style. The real attraction, however, is downstairs at the Drift on Inn Roadhouse. Standing like the Taj Mahal above Blackjack and Stud tables, across from the largest big-screen TV in the state, sits the most unbelievable bar in Seattle. Known as "The LaFayette Antique Mirror Bar," this gorgeous monstrosity--a real must-see--was made in 1845 in New York City for $10,000, and has been transported hither and yon before finally ending up here on Aurora Avenue. High rollers: The ATM is on the left when you walk in the door. MEGAN HAAS

Maneki

304 Sixth Ave S (International District), 622-2631. Tues-Sun 5:30 - 10:30 pm. $$

Maneki, Seattle's oldest sushi bar, originally opened in 1923. Returning from internment after World War II, Maneki's owners found their grand restaurant ransacked. They reopened at the current location, which has stayed small in the interest of quality control. Jeanie, who now owns and runs Maneki, puts together Japanese home cookin' and a comfortable environment to enjoy it in. Her gracious and friendly presence, along with the sushi chef's craftsmanship and the waitstaff's lightning-quick service, make Maneki feel like a Japanese diner, the kind of place one might visit regularly. Then there is the food itself: The weekly specials range from merely interesting to outright exotic. I conservatively sampled the Tempura-Battered Deep-Fried Smelt chilled in a spicy pickled sauce ($4.25), Salmon Croquettes ($3.95), and Beef and Pickled Daikon Radish ($3.95). I won't waste words describing the intense joy that eating these small dishes gave me, because the weekly specials change (duh) weekly, depending on the availability of fresh seafood and the chefs' whims. The ever-changing, never-boring specials are reason enough for return visits. RACHEL KESSLER