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Tuesday, February 15, 2011

What Makes a Cheesesteak Cheesy?

Posted by on Tue, Feb 15, 2011 at 11:44 AM

Tats: Whiz or not, you know you want it.
  • Kelly O
  • Tat's: Whiz or not, you know you want it.
In my second Pioneer Square sandwich review, I wrote, "While you could opt for a more cheeselike cheese—provolone and mozzarella are on the menu—you really should make like they do in Philly and go for the Cheez Whiz."

Today, I got a personal request from Slog Tipper Jeff, who says:

...please stop spreading the myth that a "traditional cheesesteak" comes with Whiz. The only two places that really push Whiz are Pat's and Geno's a.k.a. the grossest steaks in the city.

Anyone worth their salt in Philly (John's, Steve's, Jim's Dellesandro's) is typically using slices of American Cheese. And I would venture that around 70-80% of Philadelphians prefer American Slices.

While it may not be such a far cry flavor wise, it's leaps and bounds different in texture.

Noted, Jeff, and thank you. I've never lived in Philadelphia, so my big fucking mouth doesn't know what it is talking about. My big fucking mouth does know, however, that the cheese steak and Whiz at Calozzi's and Tat's are both awesome. Traditional or not, they are great.

 

Comments (23) RSS

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aardvark 1
FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT FAT

just kidding. the TATSTRAMI is the best fucking samwhich in town
Posted by aardvark on February 15, 2011 at 11:49 AM
2
Yes, American cheese all the way. There's only 2 things it's good for: grilled cheese and melting over grilled beef, as in cheese steaks and hamburgers.
Posted by jonesey on February 15, 2011 at 11:57 AM
Supreme Ruler Of The Universe 3
I lived in Center City Philly for two years ('84 - '86)

My cheese place was Jim's on South Street

http://www.jimssteaks.com/

I remember getting mine with provolone.

Posted by Supreme Ruler Of The Universe http://www.you-read-it-here-first.com on February 15, 2011 at 12:01 PM
4
Maybe it is just me but I really don't see American Cheese as being much of an upgrade from Cheese Whiz. And I certainly wouldn't be bragging about.
Posted by Senor Guy on February 15, 2011 at 12:05 PM
I Heart Flan! 5
Being from Philly and enjoying many non-geno's/pat's cheesesteaks, there is an approximation of the "whiz-effect" that is more traditional: *Extra Sharp* provolone (seemingly non-existant here in Seattle) is melted then flipped into the steak after it is browned the griddle.

Thats what makes a good, traditional Cheesesteak IMO. Tat's only gets that right 40% of the time i've gone. The rest of the time, the sandwich is hideously dry.
Posted by I Heart Flan! on February 15, 2011 at 12:08 PM
6
I remember white american cheese as the norm most places. Of course all sorts of varieties are served, even abominations like chicken cheese steak. The cheese should melt to the point of giving the beef beneath it a translucent sheen. The opaque yellow of cheese wiz lacks elegance.
Posted by kinaidos on February 15, 2011 at 12:10 PM
7
Is it just me or do people from Philadelphia take their steak sandwiches way too fucking serious. For reals, it's meat, onions, peppers and cheese, it shouldn't be a big deal that can only be done right in their home state.
Posted by Little Red Ryan Hood on February 15, 2011 at 12:17 PM
aardvark 8
@7 im like you i admit that i have a habit of opining about shit i have no fucking clue about
Posted by aardvark on February 15, 2011 at 12:23 PM
9
I've been to Philadelphia one time and didn't eat a cheese steak. But in my innocence I always thought the cheese was Philadelphia cream cheese. Sigh. So many cheese and cheese-like products, so little time. . .
Posted by LuisitaPhD on February 15, 2011 at 12:28 PM
Beetlecat 10
now if they would only add whiz to poutine...
Posted by Beetlecat on February 15, 2011 at 12:32 PM
Dougsf 11
Of all the working-class fast foods a city can specialize in— pizza, hot dogs, burritos, tacos, papusas, kati rolls, humbow, pierogis, etc.—cheesestakes are the lowest on the food totem pole.
Posted by Dougsf on February 15, 2011 at 12:50 PM
COMTE 12
These sort of claims as to the "authenticity" of this or that particular regional cuisine tends to be pretty much a non-issue, as the etymology of the item in question (and Philly cheese steak sandwiches are a prime example) is generally as open to interpretation as the number of its aficionados.

In the case of the Philly Cheese Steak Sandwich, according to local history it wasn't even originally made with cheese, just sliced beef and grilled onions on a hoagy roll. Now, locals fight over whether Cheez Whiz, Provalone or American is the "authentic" version, whereas, if one takes the strict purist position, it could just as easily be argued that NONE are the "real deal", since they don't adhere to the ingredient list of the original item.

Meanwhile, anyone born within a two hour drive of Philadelphia will assert that nobody else does "authentic cheesesteak" except their preferred establishment, even to the point of making ridiculous claims that landmarks like Pat's King Of Steaks (original owner Pat Olivieri being credited as one of the co-inventors of the "Philly steak sandwich" in the '30's) shouldn't be considered "authentic" based on any number of vague and clearly prejudicial rationales.

The whole NYC "Ray's Pizza" argument falls into this same category; over time so many variants on the Ray's moniker have come into being that literally nobody seems to know which Ray's is THE original, yet each has their legion of fans who will claim the title, regardless of the lack of any sort of legitimate authentication.
Posted by COMTE http://www.chriscomte.com on February 15, 2011 at 1:05 PM
psbirch 13
I worked at John's (http://www.yelp.com/biz/johns-pizza-fraz…) for years back in the mid- to late-90s and about 90% of folks took their cheesesteaks with provolone, the other 10% with American.
Posted by psbirch on February 15, 2011 at 1:07 PM
Confluence 14
Born & raised in Philly here.

First off, it's all about the WHIZ. This 70% - 80% of Philadelphians prefer American slices is total BULLSHIT. And go to Calozzi's, *not* Tat's because Calozzi's is totally legit. Those are real Philly guys and they do their steaks right.

Second, I'm sick as hell of west coast dumbasses calling them "cheese steak sandwiches," "Philly steak sandwiches" or "subs" like bogus Tat's does. The word "sub" doesn't even exist in Philly... and you call yourself an "east coast" food joint, Tat's?? It's a "cheesesteak," all one word, people, get it right. You Seattlelites might think it's being nitpicky, but it's as bad as an east coaster like me referring to Spokane as "spoke - kane" or "Oregon" as "or-e-gone".
Posted by Confluence on February 15, 2011 at 1:27 PM
15
only Seattle-based internet commenters could get so shitty about the life-affirming sandwich that is the cheesesteak.

AND BESIDES, anyone who's anyone knows it's gotta be on an Amoroso's, anyhow
Posted by UberAlles on February 15, 2011 at 1:47 PM
aardvark 16
@12 dont fucking bring pizza into this. you can take the philosophical position and look at this from above, but to those of us who live one of these things you list, there is a Right way and a Wrong way and it's worth real blows over. it's one of those things that come from childhood and family, it's ingrained.

fucking ray's pizza... go to Ct for Real Pizza

anybody had a Steak-umm Cheesesteak?
http://www.1pizzasecrets.com/~gravy/stea…
Posted by aardvark on February 15, 2011 at 3:03 PM
Fnarf 17
@5 is the closest to the truth here. Provolone triangles, melted into the steak on the griddle.

But the best steaks (which is what they should be called), come from Boston. Gimme a steak, California style (lettuce, tomato, mayo added, which I acknowledge is non-traditional.
Posted by Fnarf http://www.facebook.com/fnarf on February 15, 2011 at 3:32 PM
bconnolly 18
There is a place in Burien called Hey, Paison! that makes amazing cheese steaks.

I went for the first time a few weeks ago and the guy there (who greets everyone with a HEY, PAISON!) asked me what kind of cheese I wanted. I had him list the options and I chose provolone which immediately caused him to raise an eyebrow. I then asked "What cheese should I get?" and he told me that the best cheese steaks are made with American Cheese.

I don't know why he gave me options if he just wanted me to get American. In any case, it was delicious.
Posted by bconnolly on February 15, 2011 at 3:50 PM
Captain Wiggette 19
TATS is bullshit. I grew up near Philly and was born there. I just tried tats for the first time the other day. Not terrible, but not a real cheesesteak.

The only respectable cheesesteak I've found in the NW is at Hey Paisan in Burien.

Nothing else is close to authentic.

There are some good non-authentic steak sandwiches, several of which are extremely tasty (Whole Foods, in fact, can whip together a mean tasty cheesesteak).

But tat's is NOT a real cheesesteak. Cheap meat, no flavor. A cheap stuff-your-face meal for Seattleites who don't know the difference, but NOT a legit cheesesteak.

Now, if I could find a decent Italian Hoagie in Seattle to save my life I'd be set. But it's been more than 15 years and I haven't found it here. :(
Posted by Captain Wiggette on February 15, 2011 at 8:53 PM
COMTE 20
@16:

Considering the commentors in this thread who claim Philly roots can't even agree on the "right" versus "wrong" way to make a fucking grilled meat and cheese sandwich, just proves my point.
Posted by COMTE http://www.chriscomte.com on February 15, 2011 at 8:53 PM
21
@20 I can't agree more.
Posted by Little Red Ryan Hood on February 15, 2011 at 9:35 PM
NaFun 22
I like me a Tat's cheesesteak. Also good is Philly Fevre on Madison near 23rd. Oh, and Philly's Best on 23rd and Union was actually pretty amazing. The one on 23rd is closed after the owner was shot but there's another at MLK and Rainier that I haven't been into yet...

I dunno, they all taste good and they all are basically the same.
Posted by NaFun http://www.dancesafe.org on February 15, 2011 at 11:33 PM
23
wit wiz > american.

I don't know why you're judging as if american is more "real cheese" than whiz, anyway. They're both fake as anything.
Posted by really nowww on February 16, 2011 at 12:48 AM

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