- Kelly O
- Neil Robertson has a few secrets.
And if you haven't already, read this week's chow piece, where I spoke to owner and pastry chef Neil Robertson about his menu, and tried to find out what makes everything so goddamn good:
The croissants are almost always the first to go. They've been sold out two of the three times I've been to Crumble & Flake. An unthinkably crispy, deep golden outer layer hugs the tender, cloudlike insides. Tiny pockets of butter burst on your tongue when you sink your teeth into it.
"I'm really happy with the flavor [of the croissant]," Robertson says, preparing to whip some fresh whipping cream into a batch of vanilla custard for the cream puffs. "The texture's pretty good—it could be a little closer to what I have in mind. I have a really strong vision of what I want."
For the record, it is impossible to imagine the croissant getting any better.
Robertson is, rightfully, really happy with his chocolate chip cookie. It has crisp edges, a chewy center, and more chocolate chips than the average cookie, but not too many—there are still sections of chocolateless vanilla-tinged dough, as there should be. The texture is beyond any chocolate chip cookie I've ever had.
"This is radically different than other cookie recipes," he says. "It's what I wanted from a cookie. I want it to be really chewy—chewy! Not cakey, not underbaked, not raw," he says.
Read the rest here. (Don't get drool on your keyboard.)
My suggestion, when you go tomorrow: Get a croissant, scone, cinnamon roll, or a kouign-amann (Robertson's favorite) for breakfast, and then pick up a cookie (or three) for after lunch. Specifically, a Chewy-O. You have not eaten a cookie until you've eaten a Crumble & Flake Chewy-O.