The salt content of the onions and mushrooms from small farms varies," says Scratch Deli owner Ian Thackaberry. "I worry about that. I like to measure everything exactly." The only issue with the content of the vegetarian cheesesteak ($8) Ian made, layered with caramelized onions and marinated shiitakes, was the piece of its paper wrapping I accidentally chewed up in goatlike enthusiasm. Thackaberry has a degree in economics—he used to be a financial adviser—so it's not surprising that he's such a calculating sandwich-maker.

Disappointingly, no sandwich-related graphs decorate the walls of the space Scratch Deli is temporarily sharing with People's Republic of Koffee (1718 12th Ave, 755-5727), though there are some watercolors, one depicting a mutant made entirely of arms.

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