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Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Torta Throwdown: A Stranger Investigation

Posted by on Wed, Jul 25, 2012 at 3:23 PM

It's a dilemma every Capitol Hill stomach eventually faces: Torta pangs, aka regular hunger pangs that can only be slaked with a messy, juicy, meaty Mexican sandwich. Fortunately, we are blessed with at least three decent torta lunch spots. But the question is: Which is the most delicious, affordable, on-the-go edible torta in town within two blocks of where I now sit on my ass, typing???

The Stranger investigates.

From left: Rancho Bravo, Poquitos, and Marination Station
  • Goldy
  • From left: Rancho Bravo, Poquitos (x2), and Marination Station

1) RANCHO BRAVO CHICKEN MOLE TORTA with lettuce shreds and tomato chunks. $4.75

Eli sez: "This is the torta I would most want to eat on the run. It's generously spiced and sauced, but—mercifully—the bun is soft enough on the inside that it soaks in all the juicy deliciousness, plus it's hard enough on the outside that you can grab hold with confidence. I feel like I could flee a robbery scene with this thing, eat it while the cops are chasing me, and then duck into a staff meeting with nothing smeared on my face and an alibi in the making."

I sez: "This tastes like good, drunken street food and it's priced like street food. Perfect for those times I have to drink just to get through the work day."

Goldy sez: "I'm a sucker for a good value, and on this count Bravo wins hands down. It's nothing special, but perfectly adequate, and at $4.75 you could buy two tortas from Bravo for the price of one from Poquitos. Such a deal!"

2) POQUITOS AHOGADA TORTA (pictured top w/o red chili sauce), the grandaddy of all Americanized tortas—the torta all other tortas aspire to be: Tender carnitas with smokey chipotle mayo, pickled onions, and cilantro. $9.95

Eli sez: "By far the best of the bunch. The pork is ready to melt for you. The sauce is back from its recent forays into tomato soup land, and now hot and tangy as ever. And it comes with chips. (Chips!) Just make sure you're sitting down for this one, with an entire roll of paper towels at the ready."

I sez: "I wanna know what love is/I want you to show me/I wanna feel what love is/I know you can show me/Aaaah woah-oh-ooh"

Goldy sez: "I'm also sucker for good, crusty bread, and the tortas from Poquitos didn't disappoint, but they also made for a messy sandwich that can't easily be eaten with one hand. Tasty and filling, but at $9.95 it's more than I want to regularly pay for lunch on a reporter's salary."

3) POQUITOS TORTA SPECIAL, with pit-roasted pork, fried garlic aoli, and some other shit, $9.95ish

Eli sez: "Not as special as a special should be, especially—especially!—when compared to its sauce-soaked cousin. But if you like your torta with a little less muss and fuss, and love the charry delight of pit roast, you should be all about this."

I sez: "Meh. Too chewy."

Goldy sez: "I liked the meat on the Poquitos special better, but the sauce on the Yabbadabbdo made for a more savory experience."

4) MARINATION STATION SPICY PORT TORTA—a Korean-Hawaiian take on the traditional Mexican sandwich with slaw, house-made pickled peppers and onions, guacamole, and a homemade nunya sauce. $7.50

Eli sez: "Awesomely happy-making, with its fusion ways and perfect slaw. Somehow greasier than the rest, though. Maybe the mayonnaise in the slaw is melting? Get a scientist on this, quick."

I sez: "Delicious but too greasy. I couldn't eat a whole one of these myself without shitting for days."

Goldy sez: "The Marination Station torta was the least authentic, the most difficult to eat, and to my tastes the best of the lot. I love the contrast of the tangy slaw with the spicy meat. At $7.50, it's probably worth the upgrade from Bravo."


Comments (16) RSS

Oldest First Unregistered On Registered On Add a comment
alas, all of these are more expensive than what they should be, some more than double. and none of them have the bun right. i don't think we should call these tortas.
Posted by tortawhore on July 25, 2012 at 3:46 PM · Report this
Mahtli69 2
What @1 said. Rancho Bravo is the closest in terms of price and what it looks like, but the others are just expensive sandwiches, not tortas.
Posted by Mahtli69 on July 25, 2012 at 3:54 PM · Report this
I would get on the 49, walk down to Aqua Verde and get the El Presidente and enjoy all the beautiful porkiness. It could be called the El Patron...

Or I'd hitch a ride to Paseo in Fremont..

Basically I wouldn't be trying to eat a torta while in Cap Hill. I'd go beans N rice Y'all!
Posted by michael bell on July 25, 2012 at 3:58 PM · Report this
I always get a burrito.
next time, I'm getting a motherfucking torta!
Posted by Chester Copperpot on July 25, 2012 at 4:01 PM · Report this
kamsbry 5
If it's called a torta, it's got to be on a torta roll. Barriga Llena gets it right. Everything else is a really good sandwich with Mexican type fillings.
Posted by kamsbry on July 25, 2012 at 4:10 PM · Report this
What @5 said. Plus they make their own delicious chorizo.
Posted by lone locust on July 25, 2012 at 4:20 PM · Report this
@5 - authentic Mexican tortas can be made with telera, which is a softer bread like that of Rancho Bravo, or crustier bread like birote which the other two appear to have.
Posted by hotdog sandwiches on July 25, 2012 at 4:23 PM · Report this
bleedingheartlibertarian 8
Barriga Llena is the shit! Nothing on the Hill comes close, I am sad to say.
Posted by bleedingheartlibertarian on July 25, 2012 at 4:23 PM · Report this
raku 9
None of that lettuce is authentic, authentic lettuce is purple.
Posted by raku on July 25, 2012 at 5:33 PM · Report this
Bigsfrottin 10
Go for the rice and bean bowl at rancho bravo. Cheap and delicious!

@3 It's the El Patron and yes, it is a fucking pork orgasm in your mouth. I think it costs 8.50ish and it's messy, but sooo sooo worth it.
Posted by Bigsfrottin on July 25, 2012 at 5:58 PM · Report this
Go to Vuelve a la Vida in Tacoma at about 56th and Pacific Ave. Totally ghetto joint, but incredible food. Awesome Tortas.
Posted by Bax on July 25, 2012 at 8:33 PM · Report this
It is fucking ridiculous to not have included tacos chukis in this battle.
Posted by John Jensen on July 26, 2012 at 12:54 AM · Report this
It is fucking ridiculous that you've have omitted tacos chukis in this battle.
Posted by John Jensen on July 26, 2012 at 12:55 AM · Report this
It is ridiculous that you've omitted tacos chuki's excellent torta from this battle.
Posted by John Jensen on July 26, 2012 at 12:55 AM · Report this
Antojitos Teresita 23311 Pac Hiway South. Damm good Tortas even better than Bariga Llena. Get a sliced mango in a cup with chile and lime to complete a great meal. Even better than the torta is the Costillas con Nopales.
Posted by wl on July 26, 2012 at 6:30 AM · Report this
Rancho Bravo is the 4th worst Mexican restaurant in the world. It's like prison food, too much cilantro and the worst marinated meats ever. It's nasty! White folks love it though. They pack that dirty joint all the time. The Tortas at Barriga Llena are chilango style tortas, quite good and spicy.
Posted by SeMe on July 26, 2012 at 10:52 AM · Report this

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