If you don’t live in West Seattle, the fried birds in this cozy chicken shack are worth the trip. Owner Bruce Cougan, who named the joint after his dad, soaks his birds in buttermilk, dredges them in Broussards Cajun seasoning (if you ask nicely, he might give you a sample container to try at home), and then sticks them in a smoker. This trick gives his fried chicken a tenderness that seems supernatural.

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