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LE CAVISTE • Downtown: This simple, urbane, marvelous little French wine bar across from the federal courthouse is brought to us by sommelier David Butler, formerly of Campagne, Le Gourmand, and Le Pichet (a trifecta of local French greatness). Amateurs, be unafraid: The wines are exceedingly well-priced, and Butler is a master of intuition and unpretentious description. Wine-people: You are going to love this place. A small menu of charcuterie, cheeses, and so forth is available; above your head, excellent light fixtures celebrate the endangered incandescent bulb. (1919 Seventh Ave, 728-2657,, $–$$)

BRIMMER & HEELTAP • Ballard: The name Brimmer & Heeltap refers to a proper pour: When full, it's a "brimmer," and at the end, only a "heeltap" is left. The very pretty B&H is where Le Gourmand used to be; the gastropub-type food is by chef Mike Whisenhunt, previously at (the great) Revel. (425 NW Market St, 420-2534,, $$)

MILLER'S GUILD • Downtown: Jason Wilson, of the justifiably famous Crush, installed this update on the steak house inside the Hotel Max downtown, and it is tall, dark, and handsome...