La Bête on Capitol Hill has been doing some globetrotting on Monday nightsfirst Indian food for a month, now Mexican, who knows what next. Such dilettantism combined with a blatant effort to fill seats on a generally slow night is to be regarded with suspicion; in general, a restaurant ought to stick to what works, especially if it works really, really well, which La Bêtes regular menu does. But La Bêtes Mexican food is just fantasticthe mole, made with duck fat, is truly superlativeand tonight is the last night theyre making it (unless they extend itplease, please, please). (La Bête, 1802 Bellevue Ave, www.labeteseattle.com, 511 pm) by Bethany Jean Clement


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