Many years ago, two Ethiopians opened Cafe Noir on Aurora Avenue and sold Italian dishes and delights. Abay, which is owned and run by Tesfaye Haile Selassie and Blen Teklu, is similar to Cafe Noir (which no longer exists) in the sense that it is very cosmopolitan. But whereas Cafe Noir’s cosmopolitanism was based on its Ethiopian/Italian cultural combination, Abay’s cosmopolitanism is drawn from its unique approach to traditional Ethiopian dishes, emphasizing health (in the urban and not country meaning of that word) and lightness. Abay is undoubtedly one of the best Ethiopian restaurants in Seattle. (Abay Ethiopian Cuisine, 2359 10th Ave E, 257-4778, 11 am–2 am)