Ballard needs another new restaurant-and-bar like it needs a hole in the head, and Percy's and Co., with its old-timey name and "apothecary-style" cocktails, sounds especially painful. But Percy's is very handsome, with its exposed brick and big mirrors, and it is very comfortable, especially if you get one of the cushy semicircular booths. The thyme-infused gin, fresh Bosc pear, and house-made sour mix cocktail is excellent; the tinctures are easily ignored; and Dave Lamping's menu is full of tasty food in nice, big portions. All the new stuff in old Ballard should be this good. (Percy's, 5233 Ballard Ave NW,, 4 pm-2 am)