Maybe it is warm when you are reading this! Maybe not! Either way, friend, let us not wait any longer—it is the season for rosé. If you think of pink sweetness with notes of headache, be advised that the ignominious era of blush wine has passed; rosés today are, by and large, crisp and dry and taste exactly like summertime. Doug Nufer, wine-hawker at European Vine Selections on 15th Avenue East, advises that $10 is a perfectly good amount to spend on a bottle of rosé (that's $2.50 a glass). I advise that you look for a lighter-colored rosé—the pretty peachy ones taste better than the bright-pink strumpets. Chill well and (crossing fingers) enjoy in the park. (The store, now, $10)