The Stranger

(RESTAURANT) The name couldn't be stupider if it were "Beau Thai." The neighborhood is odd, distant, and homely. Still, after enjoying my first meal at Lake City Way's Thai One On, I immediately began planning my return. The pad thai is a near miracle, achieving the perfect blend of lightness and spice, and bearing almost nothing in common with the ketchup-heavy tangles dished out by other Thai joints. If you want to make the punny name a reality, there's a mod-styled bar in back. (Thai One On, 12343 Lake City Way NE, 362-6999.) DAVID SCHMADER

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