- TRIPPER DUNGAN
Today from the Great Tuna Melt Investigation: the only tuna melt in town worth $12 (which would also make a perfectly lovely late Saturday lunch):
The tuna melt at Lecosho costs $12. It comes with soup of the day (local/seasonal, naturally) or a lovely little salad (with pepitas!), a tranquil room (halfway up the Harbor Steps), a cushy banquette (ask!), a cloth napkin (thick, white), tastes of two kinds of rosé (though then you should probably buy a glass, $7, you will not regret it), and a compliment on your intelligence (“Good choice,” you are assured quietly). The sandwich is on potato bread (grilled to buttery-toasty, just strong enough to hold together) with house-poached albacore tuna (spicy with “mama’s mustard pickle relish”) and Gruyère leaking out the sides (not too sharp, not too mild, melts like a dream) and peppery arugula AND pickled red onions. Also, it is large; I could eat only half. It may cost twice as much as other tuna melts, but it’s approximately 17 times better. BETHANY JEAN CLEMENT
Nine more tuna melts, all over town, over here.
If you wish to skip directly to the comments to tell us tuna melts are disgusting (Dan Savage is with you on that), here you go.