Before watching this informative documentary by the cofounder of the influential Ego Trip magazine, Sacha Jenkins, I was on the side of those who argued that hiphop had four elements: DJing, rapping, dancing, and graffiti.
There were some who maintained that fashion constituted a fifth element, but I thought this was a bit of a stretch because fashion did not present an innovation that, upon its formation, was outside of capitalism, outside of the market, outside of the mainstream.
Then I learned in this documentary, which concerns the history of hiphop fashion, about Dapper Dan the hiphop tailor of Harlem, and had to admit that his manner of blending, mixing, and reappropriating high-end brands was indeed consistent with my hiphop innovation criteria. In fact, a law action shut down his Harlem store—he was outside of capitalism.
The documentary also describes the post-Dapper Dan fashion bubble of the 1990s. It grew and grew and finally burst around the time, 2001, the dot-com bubble crashed the stock market. We now dress fresh in the terrific ruins of that crash.