WELL KNOWN TO long-time Seattleites, Mediterranean Kitchen is one of the cleanest restaurants in town, and they're darned proud of it! A 1999 letter from the Seattle/King County Department of Public Health, a copy of which adorns every table, states, "Your establishment is one of the select few which continues to work hard to set a good example for the rest of the industry. We know you and your staff are working partners with us to ensure good food and public health protection." Such bold showcasing of sanitation is odd -- vaguely reminiscent of the checklist "How are we doing?" signs in gas station restrooms. Still, the restaurant is as comfortable as a living room, and not like a lavatory at all.

Vegetarians have plenty to choose from at Mediterranean Kitchen; silky dips and smartly prepared vegetables (such as fried cauliflower in a shy and reserved breading) dot the menu. Although not among our choices, the Chef's Special Plate (which includes carrot, broccoli, cauliflower, onion, mushroom, zucchini, red and green pepper cooked with basil peanut sauce, falafel, stuffed grape leaves, and moussaka), looked gargantuan and compelling. Mediterranean Kitchen also does a daily fresh seafood special.

For us meat-eaters, the old favorite Shish Tawook ($12) always beckons like a lighthouse in a monsoon, pulling us to its white and glistening skinlessness like morons to Budweiser. Two hefty rows of steaming charbroiled chicken lounge upon swollen and saffron-infused rice; and as always, a platter of Shish Tawook is enough for at least two meals, creating a leftover heaven for eaters less hungry than Paul Bunyan. As with all their meats, Mediterranean Kitchen has a masterful touch with marinades. Shish Tawook is strongly marinated in garlic, lemon, and herbs, resulting in soft, juicy, and extremely attractive little chunks of chicken.

The Lamb Shish Kabob ($15.50) is also handled expertly, marinated in a fashion similar to the chicken of the Shish Tawook. Served with grilled onions and tomatoes over the same satisfying rice, the lamb is hearty, with a mild flavor typical of Middle Eastern lamb treatments.

As with all other dinner selections, Shish Tawook and Lamb Shish Kabob comes with a lentil soup crowded with fresh vegetables, as well as a remarkably consistent green salad with accompanying minty dressing. Pita bread also tags along, and is usually chewy and soft. On our most recent visit the large pita flats were dry and hot, hinting at that most unthinkable of culinary crimes: the microwaving of any bread product. Hopefully this was not the case, as such a heinous act would betray the long and ven- erable history of Mediterranean Kitchen.

Do not attempt the Mezza (appetizer) Tray ($15) with less than four people. Trying to do justice to all the dips and tidbits and still have room for dinner is a daunting task. Familiar favorites hummus and baba ghanoush are joined by less commonly seen Lebanese labnie, a thick, tart, drained yogurt. Aggressively olive-oiled tabbouleh drips with a sharp, pungent tang, and the zahrah (lightly deep-fried cauliflower) delivers a warm, smoky flavor.

Mediterranean Kitchen has been a standby for many years, and is part of an old-school family of restaurants that pioneered Middle Eastern cooking in Seattle. Ali Baba, formerly in the Linda's Tavern spot, was the granddaddy of all the establishments, complementing solid food with belly dancing and modern Lebanese disco music. Just down the street was Kamalco, in the space currently occupied by the Capitol Club. The trailblazing food of Omar al Khayam on Aurora, the last of that early Big Three, lives on at surviving cousin Mediterranean Kitchen.

While Mediterranean Kitchen has been in its current space for several years, the room looks none the worse for wear, still sparkling with its burgundy linens and bright green walls. Always a favorite for pre-theater and Sonics game crowds, Mediterranean Kitchen specializes in getting diners in and out in a hurry. Its pre-show role sometimes results in funny and weird mixtures of diners, with fully outfitted Sonics fans wolfing down falafel next to an erudite and sophisticated couple enjoying a bite before the play. Mediterranean Kitchen loves us all, and continues to be a comfortable haven in the increasingly manic Seattle Center area.

Mediterranean Kitchen

366 Roy St, 285-6713. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2 pm; dinner Mon-Thurs 5-9:30 pm, Fri-Sat 5-10:30 pm, Sun 4-9:30 pm. Beer and wine. $$.

Price Scale (per entrée)

$ = $10 and under; $$ = $10-20; $$$ = $20 and up