2576 Aurora Ave N (North Queen Anne), 283-3313. Mon-Sat 5:30 pm-midnight; closed Sun. (Jacket recommended; no jeans, shorts, sneakers, or athletic wear.) $$$

On the cusp of the Aurora Bridge, dangling over Lake Union, Canlis looms over Seattle like a benevolent patriarch. The ambiance is modern classic, designed to give every table an advantageous aspect to the walls of windows. Canlis is impeccably unobtrusive: Everything exists in quiet perfection, allowing diners to enjoy their company and the view unfettered. The omniscient waitstaff describe your dish as you order it -- no verbose descriptions of menu items you're not interested in -- and then disappear. The menu is not elaborate and the presentation is not a spectacle, but the food is superb. Grilled Alaskan Weathervane Scallops ($26) and Peter Canlis Prawns ($28) are prepared with restraint and simplicity, to highlight their freshness. Filet Mignon ($35) and Wasyugyu Steak, a Kobe-style, New York cut of Washington Beef ($49) also avoid the pomp-and-circumstance vulgarity so common to the presentation of premium meats. Nothing at Canlis boasts; instead, dishes arrive with confidence. That's the secret of true class: The best of everything should be assumed, not flaunted. ERIN FRANZMAN

The Buffalo Deli

2123 First Ave (Belltown), 728-8759. Mon-Fri 10 am-5 pm, Sat 10 am-4 pm, closed Sun. $$

Kathleen Haggerty, proprietress and head chef of the Buffalo Deli, throws herself into her work with a passion and verve worthy of a nobler cause. Cold cuts, hard rolls, and chicken matzo ball soup -- all traditionally the fare of fast, unmemorable, on-the-go lunches -- are all composed with the pedantic precision of an artiste. In the short year since she opened her doors, she has gathered a loyal herd of followers from the business folk and residents surrounding the deli, and the same faithful faces can be seen every day. The menu seems dauntingly expensive at first glance, and a simple soup-and-sandwich combo for two can run close to $20. But the portion size (enormous) and the quality (exceptional) fully justify the expense. The Roast Beef on Kimmelweck ($6.25) and the New York Penicillin Soup (chicken matzo ball, $2.95 cup/$4.50 bowl) are quickly becoming Belltown legends. ADRIAN RYAN

The Elephant & Castle

1415 Fifth Ave (Downtown), 624-9977. Open daily 11 am-midnight. $$.

As this Canadian chain expands into the United States, one might wonder why, in health-conscious Seattle, we need old British standbys like Welsh Rarebit Toast (smothered in cheese sauce, $3.95), Shepherd's Pie (ground beef topped with mashed potatoes, $9.95), and Roast Beef Stuffed Yorkshire (a fat-laden biscuit stuffed with beef and topped with gravy, $10.95). But at this restaurant named after a British corruption of the French "L'enfant en Castile" (a 14th-century Spanish prince), ethnic nostalgia overrules dietary concerns, and the sheer tastiness of the cuisine further removes any hesitation. The Cock-a-Leekie Soup, made with chicken and leeks, is delectable, as is the clam chowder (both $4.95). The Prime Rib ($9.95-$12.95) is flavorful and cooked just right, and the Lancashire Hot Pot ($9.95), a beef, lamb, and potato stew served in an herbed breaded bowl, is a delightful comfort food. The Elephant & Castle's interior is comfy and spacious, and boasts a glitzy, well-stocked bar. Avoid Thursday and Friday evenings, though, unless you enjoy meat markets of the human variety. MELODY MOSS

Six Arms Pub & Brewery

300 E Pike St (Capitol Hill), 223-1698. Mon-Thurs 11 am-1 am, Fri-Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun noon-midnight. $

Though part of the Portland-based McMenamin brothers' brew-pub chain, the Six Arms has become a neighborhood favorite in the Pike-Pine corridor. Chandeliers, huge wooden booths, and a balcony level belie the casual feel, but the biggest surprise here is the exceptionally competent and friendly service -- a rare combination in Capitol Hill. Then there's the unbeatable food: Burgers are legendary, from the Dungeon Burger (1/3 pound beef with Swiss cheese, grilled mushrooms, red onions, tomatoes, and "secret sauce," on an onion bun, $5) to the Garden Commie (Gardenburger with Tillamook cheddar, grilled onions, bell peppers, and mushrooms, $7.50). Other favorites are Maria's Smokey Masterpiece (smoked turkey, bacon, and Swiss on sourdough, $7.25), and the Rare Roast Beef Sandwich (with marinated red onions and horseradish sauce, $6.50). Burgs and sandwiches come with Kettle Chips and pepperoncini, but you can get heaps of juicy, golden fries to share for a mere $1.25-$4.75. Hungry yet? Oh yeah, there's also great beer. Duh! MELODY MOSS

Catfish Corner

2726 E Cherry St (Central District), 323-4330. Mon-Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sat noon-10 pm, closed Sun. (Cash only.) $

Even with a worn-out facility and slightly dim feel, Catfish Corner continues to dish out dependable and satisfying Southern cooking. With Southern farm-raised catfish as the showcase item, the food's quality remains consistently high, while prices hover at bargain levels. The mild Catfish Fillet dinner ($8.25) shows off a generous portion of fish jacketed by a crunchy cornmeal coating, free of greasiness and dry without being burnt. The usual Southern sides dot the menu: A nice serving of fries runs 75¢; cornbread muffins are a steal for a mere quarter; and the tasty collard greens ($1.99) are far less buttery and salty than on previous visits, marking CC's ability to adapt to customers' changing expectations. Dinner items allow a choice between potato salad (yay!) or cole slaw (boo!), and come with slow-cooked beans of which legends are made. I wish the Corner would experiment with more grilling and less frying, but there's still no denying their kitchen's talent. JIM ANDERSON

Price Scale (per entrée)

$ = $10 and under; $$ = $10-20; $$$ = $20 and up