Australian culinary inclinations are pretty mysterious. I figured they didn't focus exclusively on Vegemite sandwiches, eucalyptus leaves, and Foster's, but I really didn't know what else to expect until I enjoyed a meal catered by Miyi. I was happy to find an emphasis on Mediterranean ingredients and a pleasant hybrid of comfort food and organic, healthful ingredients. Even better, the same country that gave us AC/DC and Olivia Newton-John also offers Pavlova, a Dionysian confection of sweet meringue topped with passion-fruit custard, cream, fresh fruit, and chocolate.

Are you guys fairly new to the catering business?

"No, we actually started out several years ago as a vegetarian company that did festival catering--we did Bumbershoot, Folklife, and WOMAD, but it was hard to keep the presentation values and quality we strive for in a festival setting. We had always wanted to open a store. The goal is to make truly handmade comfort food where the flavors aren't all mushed together. And we want to deliver restaurant-quality food in a takeout format."

Each of these Miyi pies (meat- and vegetable-filled pastry pockets) has a little kangaroo-shaped topping. I bet kids freak for those things. Who oversees all these finishing details?

"I do. After we cut out the pastry for the pies, we use the scraps to form the kangaroos. Each one is cut with a cookie cutter by me. I'm a chef, so I care about a signature that shows our concern for quality. It's also a way of utilizing every bit of pastry and not being wasteful."

Aesthetic presentation clearly matters to you.

"Very much. This isn't stuff that got churned out of a manufacturing plant. Everything comes fresh from Charlie's Produce, and is made that day."

What does "miyi" mean?

"It just means vegetables and bread and/or food in Aboriginal. We call our pies 'miyis' because in Australia they're called 'pasties' [pronounced PAH-stees], which Americans mispronounce."

Ah, yes, two very different things.

"So we changed the name and added more varieties. Australians usually just stick to [traditional] steak and kidney pie, which is rather saucy and gooey--and not my style. We use roasted vegetables, garlic mashed potatoes, spinach-barley pilaf, chicken, and beef--we offer more choices."

Interview by Hannah Levin