At Peso's Kitchen & Lounge, the description under the Signature Chicken-Fried Steak with Spicy Jalapeño-Corn Gravy ($9.45 regular, $6 happy hour) seemed most promising, if a bit dubious: "Our best-selling breakfast plate has a cult following." One bite in, I understand. This is a deep-fried piece of meat to which I can easily pledge my devotion—well-tenderized round steak dredged in a simple flour coating and fried until the outside is perfectly crispy, the meat still moist. It is magnificent, and the perfect vehicle for a remarkable brown gravy, the heat of which is intense and wonderfully, dangerously close to being too spicy (even without any discernible evidence of jalapeños). Sweet corn, blackened from the grill and shaved straight off the cob, provides a good crunch. The accompanying lime crema with cilantro is the necessary smooth and cooling element to the plate, which should be licked clean. Go with a hangover and a good friend. Then spread the word.

Peso's Kitchen & Lounge, 605 Queen Anne Ave N, 283-9353. Breakfast is served from 9 am–3 pm daily; breakfast happy hour ($6 for all menu items) is from 9–11 am daily.

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