I've been longing to visit Ballard's "new experiment in premium hamburgers" since Bethany Jean Clement sang its praises in these pages two weeks ago (and I'm a vegetarian). "These are exceptionally good burgers... It's your choice of eight or so different kinds of organic, ground-on-site meat; 15 different cheeses; 15 different house-made sauces; and a half-dozen more toppers (maple bacon, caramelized onions). Milkshakes, no-lumps-style, are apportioned in 400mL lab glassware. Then there are fries, twisty fries, sweet-potato fries, tater tots...." (Lunchbox Laboratory, 7302 15th Ave NW, 706-3092. 11 am–8 pm.)