Food & Drink Dec 21, 2011 at 4:00 am

Chalkboards and Sturgeon Where Sitka & Spruce Used to Be

This man makes sauces so good, you’ll fight over them. Kelly O


Nobody in Seattle can cook fish better than Charles; and that is a fact.
"seared on the outside sashimi in the middle nonsense" is how you cook TUNA not sturgeon or swordfish, so no onw would serve it to you that way regardless.

But you are a professional food critic. You knew that.
Talking about eating sturgeon without a word on whether it was sustainably harvested strikes me almost like talking about slurping shark fin soup without mentioning the problems with that food. Thankfully the Columbia fishery is one of the only sustainably-managed sturgeon fisheries in the world, but even it is vulnerable to overharvest. To quote the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch report on sturgeon:
Given the current status of the stocks and the inherent vulnerabilities of the species, wild-caught sturgeon products are not sustainably fished—with the exception of the [Lower Columbia River] white sturgeon. Due to the history of overexploitation of these fishes, we must apply the precautionary approach when considering the few stocks whose statuses remain largely unknown. Furthermore, given the current scale of the LCR white sturgeon fishery, local consumers should proceed with caution when dealing with products from that fishery but consumers should avoid them on a national level.
So, go ahead and enjoy it, but if it becomes the new Chilean Sea Bass—or in today's retarded foodie world, the new Fried Chicken—maybe pass on it.
@3: Space limitations (in print, not online, obviously) got in the way—thanks for bringing this up. We're lucky hereabouts for the Columbia—if I recall, sturgeon sometimes roil around in big balls of fish there!?—but we still must be vigilant.

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