Comments

1
If you couldn't find good food, you didn't look hard enough. (It is harder to find, granted, and many towns don't have any good food, but great places are out there. Like Garlic Mike's of Gunnison, Colorado.) And if you don't think millions of city dwellers don't like the same swill they do out in the country, you're really deluded. How many fast food restaurants are in Seattle? How many on Capitol Hill?
3
another miserable, vapid, horribly prepared comment.

eat my fuck for sounding like an asshole, chas.

and yeah, i'm a 'city guy'. glad you are making that big leap out there... fuck.

hell i'll say it again.

eat my fuck.
4
@1, I agree that restaurants with talent exist in rural areas but the good ones are much harder to find these days. It's mostly frozen Sysco crap that's thawed and thrown at customers.
The rural places that do have good food usually have other urban features going for them – local theaters, hip cafes, bohemian artists and intellectuals, and less tv oriented small towns. But by Charles’s definition, those places don’t really qualify as rural.
5
Cannot the country folk purchase the same cookbooks as the city folk?

Do not the country folk see the same cooking shows on their television that the city folk do?

Or are you comparing the local equivalent of Dick's Drive-In to your favourite upscale Thai fusion place?
6
I also agree with Matt that there might be more quality but there sure as hell is a shit ton of bad chains in Seattle.
There's a lot of rural flavor in urban environments.
7
Many, many, rural Americans take great pride in their skill and knowledge of meat preparation. What you encountered is the absence of restaurant culture. Fantastic food might have been grilling in every yard you passed.

If Seattle only had one restaurant, it wouldn't try that hard either.
8
Damn, dude. Try a Supper Club in northern Wisconsin. They rule.
9
They don't call it Flyover Country for nothing.

Scott Walker for President!

10
The only thing that strikes me, when I'm out in Eastern Washington, is this: those people are surrounded by fresh food, the bounty of the area's rich farmland. And yet most of the restaurants serve what is obviously re-heated from frozen, line-assembled crap, and people seem to buy a lot of processed food for home consumption. Don't even get me started on the lack of home vegetable gardens despite the perfect growing weather.

There are people in this city who will pay out the ass for a meal prepared with local ingredients, and people trying to grow small vegetable gardens in barely hospitable locations. It's ass-backward, I tell ya!
11
I went to a Safeway in Helena, Mont. that had an identical floorplan to any you'd find in Seattle, with all the same stuff: the balsamic vinegar, free-range chicken, the fresh basil. They have cable and satellite TV in the sticks, Charles, which means they have Food Network and PBS Create...
12
yes, thank god we're urban, why it's only in a rural place you'd see some one praising a restaurant for putting chips and mayo on a fried chicken sandwich or acting like greezy food is good.
13
I pity da fool who doesn"t check out Jane and Michael Stern"s latest Roadfood edition prior to going east of Spokane by car.
14
@ 4, that's true. Gunnison is a small ranching town with a college (not enough to make it Bohemian, but there's certainly that element there), and it's 30 miles or so from the resort town of Crested Butte, right on the only paved highway to that town. That probably accounts for the presence of an Italian steakhouse where you can expect to pay about $30 - 40 per person for the whole meal, more if you're drinking.

Most small towns can't support such a place, and the unfortunate truth about the American food industry as a whole is that they have to be run as cheaply as possible, which is why Sysco crap is so prevalent. Charles would judge that as being the result of a "rural" viewpoint (one which is found in every city in this country), but I think that the all American value of wanting everything for virtually nothing is actually urban in its roots, and is the reason that most regular restaurants now have to be managed like Walmart in order to survive.
15
I can't speak for other parts of America, but in the semi-rural part of SW WA were I spent my formidable years, what Charles states was, unfortunately - and still, rather true.

My mother learned most of her cooking technique from my grandmother, who learned her's from growing up in a logging camp: meat was either boiled or roasted it until it was the consistency of shoe-leather, or fried in bacon-grease (she still keeps a crock of congealed lard on the stove top); vegetables were boiled until they became a flavorless slush; and every meal included potatoes in some form. Except for rare forays into an actual sit-down restaurant, I didn't eat a really decent meal until I went to college.

And yes, my mom (and grandma, and aunts) had dozens of cookbooks: everything from the baseline "Joy of Cooking" to those little mimeographed collections that are sold at ladies auxiliary bake sales - but I can't recall many instances of my mom at least ever referring to one. No real need I guess, when your cooking "skills" are limited to a few rudimentary techniques, and you're not trying to impress anyone who's going to eat it anyway.

On the flip-side though, and to their credit, the women-folk in my family (and aside from the occasional outdoor BBQ it was ALWAYS the women doing the cooking, never the men), are all amazing bakers. Cookies, cakes, pies, kuchens, strudels, rosettes, brownies, fudge; if it's flour-and-sugar based they can bake that shit to perfection.

Weird how that works, but there it is...
16
For a Marxist, you can be a real fucking snob sometimes, Charles.
17
@16: +1
18
just because he's a lousy marxist, meaning, he doesn't really know shit about marxism or political economy, doesn't mean he isn't right about food. the only thing is much food in urban seattle is also crappy.

one single baguette in france, with butter, is better than 80% of all food sold in restaurants in the USA.

19
@7:

You're talking BBQ & smoking - completely different from what Charles is talking about - and strangely, the only real type of food prep that is done almost exclusively by the men-folk, FWIW.

@10:

The horrible secret is that almost all of that delicious, fresh bounty you see in E. WA is grown on-contract for mass market processors like ConAgra, Pinnacle, Kraft, Kellogg, Cargill, Dole, Unilever, et al, who in turn process-and-freeze it, or turn it into ingredients for other, even more processed food products that end up on your plate at Olive Garden, Applebees, and every other major-chain restaurant franchise in the country, or at your nearest Wal*Mart, Costco, Albertsons, QFC or whatever grocery store.
20
+1 for charles. rural food is some of the most unimaginably awful food i've ever had the displeasure to attempt to eat. that said, i have to agree with @18 that urban food can be disappointingly mediocre (i'm looking at you san francisco).
21
Can someone please show Charles how to set up his own blog so he can post his inanities there? Tanks.
22
holy fuck chuckles, you continue to take idiocy to astonishing new levels. the best, i repeat, THE BEST mexican food i've ever had was in a small eastern arizona town (springerville, az, pop 2005). you are the most self centered person...if YOU didn't find it then it doesn't exist?

fuck you chuckles. fuck you right up your smug urban tight asshole.
23
@20,

Some of the worst meals I've ever had were in New York City. It's the dreadful result of hype (in the case of popular restaurants that served flavorless mush) and foot traffic (which kept many terrible restaurants just barely hanging on by their fingernails). There's a reason why so many Kitchen Nightmares episodes are set in New York City and state.
24
Oh, I don't think Charles is wrong about the relative merits of urban vs. rural food, generally.

But I don't spend my days bemoaning the economic system, the surpluses of which have an awful lot to do with making the high-quality foodways us city folk enjoy possible.
25
@23, i'm from ny, and some of the worst pizza i've ever had i ate in the bronx. on average, though, new york metro area food is pretty good. sf? unless you're willing to pay quite a bit of money, not so much.

and in the country? well, i've had some fantastic meals north of new york city but i feel that was more the result of nyc's influence than anything else. i've also eaten well in st helena which is a small rural town north of sf, but it is in the heart of napa and home to the culinary institute of america. in truly rural california--central california all the way to the sierras--the food is exactly of the sort charles has encountered. we're talking insultingly bad, poorly prepared food that will cause you to choose hunger over it (as i did just last week).
26
I don't think there's an exurb anywhere--low-density or not--that's half an hour from the nearest restaurant.
27
@22, that's exactly what i look for in rural areas. mexican food. exactly.
28
Comti - what a charming story. I, too, grew up in SW WA, Chehalis and Adna to be exact. Where did you grow up?
I went to lots of church and grange potlucks, and yes, the baked goods were superior, compared to the casseroles. I remember lots of tasty cookies and cakes, too. Probably a Scandinavian influence.
29
the condescension here is painful. i live in kansas. learn how to fucking cook.
30
the condescension here is painful. i live in kansas, and yes, cities have better restaurant options - but good food doesn't have to be made by someone else. learn how to fucking cook. that's what rural people do.
31
@ 22, That doesn't count. The southwest has tons of good Mexican food places. One of the best I ever found happened to be at a truckstop in the middle of nowhere.

32
I'm guessing that Charles didn't make any effort to seek out good resturants. Good food isn't going to just fall in your lap along side a rural interstate.
33
@32: Yeah. I'm guessing he's been eating trucker food.
34
No venison or elk? Then you're missing the best meat that country has to offer. And beaver on Friday.

Long ago at a Chinese restaurant in Coeur d'Alene, K and I determined halfway through our eggrolls, and suspicious from the first bite, that the meat used was bologna.
35
@2, and @16: HA, awesome. And @16, for a Marxist, he seems to have a painful lack of understanding about urban/rural divides on wealth and resources.
@10: Agreed, mostly. I noticed that when I visit family in the midwest, too, that they're surrounded by beautiful farmland and apparently sell all those great veggies off to other people. But that is *not* what Chas was arguing here, not really.

By the way, am I the only one who thinks that virtually every Charles Slog post fits into that New Yorker cartoon recaption theory from the Internets -- that most of them could just captioned "Christ, what an asshole!"
36
As someone who grew up in the country and moved to the city, I have to largely agree with Charles. There are some smaller communities of ex-city people that tend to have urban quality food, but not many of them.
37
This is painfully classist; you're hereby kicked out of Marxism, Charles. Not that the naive, bourgeois writing hasn't been on the wall for a while.
38
If you were far far away from a National Park, and therefore "in the country", I'd buy your point. But you went to visit Yellowstone. That's not "rural", that's a small city in the mountains.
39
One of the best steaks I've ever had was in a roadside hole in the wall restaurant about 20 minutes outside of Wall, South Dakota. There were 9 of us in our party, only the kids weren't checking the floors for roaches. It was the only building in the entire town of whereeverthefuckwewere, SD that was built on a foundation. And the steaks were so tender they could be cut with the side of the fork, perfectly cooked. I haven't eaten in many places more rural than that, and I still want to go back there for dinner.
40
In the West it's like that but I'd take rural Southern food over any Midwest food (except Chicago dogs)
41
@28:

Just down I-5: Castle Rock & Kelso.
42
That's hilarious Charles, mainly because it's so true. That last sentence it the funniest thing you've written in a while.

There are exceptions, of course. The most notable I can think of is Lockhart, TX (pop. 12K), which offers far better BBQ than you can get anywhere the density of Austin. Of course, almost all Lockhart's customers are Austin residents who take the 40 mile drive through the middle of nowhere to get there, so does that really count?

Everyone in this thread seems to be providing exceptions, which of course exist, but you completely nailed the norm.
43
I have driven countless miles across the American and Canadian West over the years, and Charles is mostly right: by and large, the food sucks. Saying so isn't about being a snob, it's pointing out how it compares with other places. Rural western America has redeeming qualities but it just isn't one of them.

But, until relatively recently it wasn't that great in Seattle either. Anybody recalls when it was quite difficult to buy decent bread or cup of coffee just to mention 2 common items?
44
@13's absolutely right, and if you don't want to buy the book, you can do a search by state, town, and type of cuisine on the Roadfood website.
45
There are other places to eat besides Denny's & 4B's.
46
@43 - Yes, I remember. I left Capitol Hill because the restaurants were shitty and I don't cook. The only halfway decent one was Coastal, which had the "good restaurant" market cornered, so of course they got complacent and their food got shitty, too.

Now, it's a different story. Well, I can't vouch for Coastal Kitchen since I've not been back, but CH is food heaven now.
47
No matter how bad your mother's cooking is, if you've been eating it since weaning you're gonna like it.
48
Charles, the farm industry has been contracting for decades - they've gotten so efficient that it takes fewer people to run them, so there are fewer jobs. Fewer jobs means less money to eat out....That's the same for contracting cities as well. I guarantee you that there are fewer good restaurants in St. Louis and Detroit than there are in expanding cities like Seattle or Houston.
Newflash: Rich people can afford better things!
For someone who claims to be a Marxist, you seem to have an unmitigated contempt for the proletariat.
49
@30:

The problem of course being that, technically-speaking, any sort of food thrown into a container and heated in some fashion constitutes "cooking". But there's no guarantee it's going to come through the process being anything more than merely palatable - if you're lucky.

And I did in fact learn to cook; partly by circumstance and partly by necessity. By the time I was 12 or 13 I was cooking most of the evening meals in my house, because my mom didn't get home from work until 5:30 or 6:00 p.m. and my stepfather was one of those "I want to get out of the car, walk in the door, and sit down to dinner with no waiting" types.

Since mom wasn't around to teach me, I learned from the cookbooks she never seemed to use, so that, by the time I left home for college, I knew my way around a kitchen with reasonable facility; a skill I've improved upon considerably over the years.

And here's the funny part: all those down-home, rural-folk recipes that we like to think of as quintessentially "American" can taste pretty damned good, if you actually follow the recipes (at least at first - I'm a firm believer in learning the rules BEFORE you start breaking them), and know what the hell you're doing.
50

So, Mr. Blackwell...when are you coming back to Seattle to prepare your annual list of the 10 worst dressed women?

51
if a chilis were to open in my in-laws small hometown in the rural mid-west it would easily be the best restaurant in town. buffalo wild wings is probably the best right now. there is one bar that serves a pretty good pork sandwich, but there is nothing else but utter grossness and a super wal-mart where everybody shops. all the people objecting so vehemently have either never really spent time in rural america or have horrible taste. there are exceptions sure, but that is the exception, the reality is that food has become political in much of the country, eating well (and by that i mean caring at all about food) is liberal hogwash and anything but meat and potatos is "weird people" food. I exclude certain parts of the south and small pockets in random places where a food culture has survived the poison of modernism and reactionary thought.
52
UNSUBSCRIBE COMPLAINY-RURAL-TRAVELOGUE
53
There were real live buffalo in front of your face and you're bitching about food?!
54
Charles,

Why do so many people hate you? Kind of strange.

Did you mean to insult rural people or are commenters taking your post the wrong way?
55
As a rural American myself, this post might have pissed me off if I didn't believe that Charles' opinion defines irrelevancy.
56
You mention horrible home cooking in the final paragraph, but only mention food "joints" in the first half. Did you have anyone's home cooking, or are you just being a condescending and assumptive yahoo?

On what basis can you make the claim that in every home in the midwest, people are preparing horrible food? You are the most raging psuedo-intellectual I have ever seen.

You seem to have learned an awful lot from the car window, and from watching lots of television on your trip. You learned nothing, and did not want to.
57
Charles shouldn't turn in his Marxist merit badge, and here's why: The city makes good food at a range of prices possible because a restaurant can sell a lot of food to cover costs. Can a good restaurant in a sparsely populated area get enough business to do that? Rarely. Rural restaurants are limited to ingredients that will keep, or the overhead will kill the business.

That is not an indictment on a class of people, which would be anti-Marx. Poor people live in the city too, afterall, and can enjoy great food cheaply because their are so damned many of us buying and eating. Advocating for city life because a city is so economically collective is Marxist. Defending the unavoidable individualism of rural life is not. Saying that people should have their basic needs met (good food!) is Marxist. Denying the realities and limitations of living rurally is not. Charles is staying within his adopted philosophy.
58
Of course one looks for Mexican food in rural Amurka. Mexican people work on the farms, and a couple of them will open a restaurant. It is one's best hope for a flavorful travel meal.
59
@ 48 - "For someone who claims to be a Marxist, you seem to have an unmitigated contempt for the proletariat."

YES. THIS.

Charles, have you ever explored why this may be? Because this is glaringly obvious to anyone who has read your writings over the years...

And of course it's not the only aspect of your work. You are capable of some amazingly beautiful, deep even, insights into nature and humanity.. But it always seems to come back to this contemptuous attitude towards those you deem less sophisticated than you. An odd position for a Marxist, to be sure...
60
@59, the explanation is refreshingly simple. The Left loves humanity and hates people.
61
@ 16: yes, writer is a snob. Having grown up in a rural area and lived most of my adult life in urban areas, where I developed foodie tastes, I don't recognize the "rural" that Mudede describes. My rural consisted of garden-grown vegetables that were eaten fresh in spring, summer and early fall, then canned for winter use. No buying organic produce at overpriced farmers' markets. Beef came from my grandparents' farm, not overpriced and under plastic at some yuppie grocery store, and it was well-prepared. The main difference I would identify between rural and urban eating habits is that urban areas have greater variety of food types (that are shipped in, carbon footprint be damned, from God-knows-where), whereas folks in rural areas eat fewer types of food--because people there do more eating within the bio-region, which I thought was the goal of the eco-foodie Michael Pollans and Alice Waters of the world.

Mudede is peddling ridiculous stereotypes.
62
Great article! Cheers

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