Louie Alfajora is a beloved fixture in the commerce of Beacon Hill. By day, he mans the counter at the Despi Delite Bakery. In the evenings, he waits tables at Inay's Asian Pacific Cuisine. And during his Friday-night shifts at Inay's, he performs musical numbers—while still waiting tables—as his drag alter ego, Atasha Manila.

What's the most challenging aspect of being a drag-queen waiter?

Busing tables. It's hard to balance every dirty plate in your hand while you have six-inch stilettos on. And with my waist cinched, a wig on, and padding, busing tables gets hot!

What's Inay's most popular dish? And what's Atasha's most popular number?

Tilapia cooked in coconut milk with jalapeño and ginger is our signature dish. [It is delicious, and costs $8.25.—Ed.] And Atasha's greatest hit of the moment is "Girls Just Want to Have Fun" by Cyndi Lauper. But Nicki Minaj is my go-to diva—"Super Bass," "Starships." And ABBA's "Dancing Queen" is my forever closer. Everyone gets up and dances.

What's your worst-ever food-service disaster?

Oh my God. I was in drag. A family of eight came in, and they were surprised to find a drag show, and I dropped a glass of ice-cold water on their baby. They had a little boy in a high chair, and I'd brought out six full glasses of water in high heels, and I served five just fine, but the sixth fell onto the little boy's head. It was so awful. It was a big glass. The baby screamed. It was ice-cold water. They ran out. I CAN'T BELIEVE MY WORST STORY IS ABOUT SERVING WATER!

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