At this old-school-looking deli in Phinney Ridge, Chris Martino (co-owner of the Nickerson Street Saloon) specializes in smoked-meat sandwiches. He does a lot of stuff right, but the Santa Maria tri-tip steak sandwich is on a whole different level. It’s got all the right ingredients—a Macrina roll, tender grass-fed beef, fresh vegetables—arranged in just the right way, with the steak lightly smoked, doused in chimichurri, and covered with tomato-and-onion salsa. It is so good it may make you cry. There’s also beer and wine, and a dozen or so seats.