Jebena already leads the highly competitive race for best Ethiopian restaurant in town based solely on the merits of using the freshest ingredients, the best combination of spices in its shiro wot, the cheerful green walls, and the attention to details (like house-made yogurt and cheese). But what makes Jebena’s beef tips and everything else so much better is the service. Martha Ayele dotes on customers, warmly introducing her cuisine to newcomers while cooking the food her regulars and fellow countrymen already know so well, making everyone feel utterly at home in front of her injera. NAOMI TOMKY