Kotaro Kumita’s Ravenna-area sushi bar, serving the best sushi in the city, seems destined to linger in the shadows. It opened at the same time as the venerated—and much more publicized—Sushi Kashiba and sits in the literal shadow of the many-award-winning Salare. Yet the simple, traditional Edomae-style sushi Kumita serves deserves all the praise of both those places—and more. During the omakase—chef’s tasting menu—at the bar, Kumita plays taste buds like a symphony, warming them up with local geoduck, dazzling them with lightly smoked, kelp-wrapped, or salt-kissed versions of familiar fish, then finishing them with dessert-worthy sea urchin. NAOMI TOMKY