Experimentation drives Matt Bumpas, the former pastry chef of Poppy restaurant who now owns Sweet Bumpas. He currently sells his ice cream, which comes in unique flavors like rhubarb pineapple and chipotle peanut brittle, at outdoor markets around the city, as well as for private events and special orders—and, in July 2017, he opened a kitchen window that serves scoops and pints on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday afternoons. While he plays around a lot, Bumpas is a technically driven chef. "People think ice cream can't be elevated," he says. "It is a simple thing, but there is a complexity to it that people don't understand. And even people making ice cream don't understand." ANGELA GARBES