With just three tables and a simple menu, this Phinney Ridge Japanese restaurant turns understatement into art. While the udon soup makes for a lovely lunch and the sushi is fresh and serviceable (particularly lovely when eaten on the tables of the hidden back patio—which, both covered and heated, is lovely year-round), what lifts this from neighborhood café to citywide destination are the pastries. Japanese pastry chef Setsuko Tanaka turns out an assortment of delectables (purple sweet potato cheesecake, green tea chocolate mochi, fresh cream puffs) every day, each one a masterpiece, both visually and in flavor. NAOMI TOMKY