The Book Bindery is located in a former book bindery overlooking the Fremont ship canal, and it is beautiful (including the open kitchen), with the feeling of an old-fashioned but unstodgy private club (one with year-round dining in an adjoining greenhouse, too). Chef Shaun McCrain's resume includes four years at Per Se, and his food is luxurious and assured, as well as handsomely presented and skillfully served: opulent salads, carefully composed seafood delicacies, generous and rich and interesting entrees. If sibling winery Almquist Family Vintners next door is open late, a tour and tasting is pretty much required.