The Coterie Room is an official Big Deal, and it looks marvelous with its impressive crystal chandelier and lush wall of living plants. A large mirror on one wall has an almost subliminal message written on it: "We love you. We serve you good food." The "we" is Brian McCracken and Dana Tough (Spur Gastropub, Tavern Law), and their "American classics" here—mac 'n' cheese, pan-seared trout, a grilled rib eye—are pricey but great. The family-style modernist-cuisine fried chicken is actually, totally worth the $32 price (and it easily feeds two).