Where Sitka & Spruce started out, then Nettletown lived, chef Charles Walpole (Anchovies & Olives, Marjorie, the original Mistral) has his own, also great, tiny first restaurant. The pig here is on one deep orange-red wall, in the form of a taxidermied boar’s head, and on the menu, maybe in the form of pork belly with the fat all bacony-crisp and the meat all rich, plus little, sweet baby turnips, braised red cabbage, and the surprise of horseradish jam. The menu is seasonable, the prices are reasonable (including on good wine), fishes are cooked precisely right, and sauces may cause sharing issues.