52 Lakeshore Plaza, Kirkland, 425-803-3003

THE SHARK CLUB sits on the lip of paradise. Really, paradise. Lake Washington, the massive ocean liners (whose windows at night glow like those of a charmed spaceship), the rolling park, and the teenagers hanging around, burning time in the sci-fi sunset--all of this constitutes paradise. There is no heaven, because how could it improve on this earthly hologram? The Shark Club is almost the opposite of the agreeable setting that surrounds it. The bar is Blade Runner-dark, and the capacious poolroom is moody. It's the outside tables that make the Shark Club. The drinks are fine--my sister enjoyed her rum and Coke, my cousin liked his vodka and tonic, my friend's beer was cold, and I was happy with the house red wine--but what moved us more than anything else was the view of paradise from our table. When fall fully arrives, its bursting colors will bring tears to the sensitive drinkers of the Shark Club. CHARLES MUDEDE