YEN WOR VILLAGE2300 California Ave SW, 932-1455Though the drinks are reasonably priced, the best thing about YEN WOR VILLAGE is that the bar waitress--a handsome Chinese woman in her 30s--sings karaoke when business is slow. The night I was there, she sang three songs in a ghostly voice that recalled the poetic sections of Hung Lou Meng ("We shall then go back together to the Phantom Realm of the Great Void," or "Let us be off, then, to the Palace of the Red Clouds"). Indeed, one day we shall return to Yen Wor Village. CHARLES MUDEDE