AXIS 2214 First Ave, 441-9600. From the valet parking out front to the ornately streaked locks of its patrons, AXIS is the quintessence of modern Belltown: a strange sheen atop the downtown's less than glamorous underbelly. The cavernous restaurant comes complete with visibly swirling meats and Wood Stone oven, but the building's entryway is its real attraction--a long marble bar displayed prominently behind a wall of streetside glass. As visibility is paramount in the Belltown meat market, Axis allows the coifed and perfumed a perfect display case. ZAC PENNINGTON