Old-school Seattle barflies may fondly recall one of the city's more intimidating bartenders, the formidable Nina from the old Frontier Room. Nina made her drinks stiffly, swiftly, and with a distinct brand of tough love that earned her a fiercely loyal following. It is precisely this stance that was indirectly inherited by Hefe Farman, a poised and brash beauty known for being more than a little brusque with Tin Hat newcomers. "When people first come in, I'm—well—not very nice," she says matter-of-factly. "But if they come back, I take really good care of them." If her surname looks familiar, it's because her family owns Farman's Pickles, a classic local brand whose mascot (a petite pickle wearing a smile and a crown) is indelibly etched on Farman's torso, right next to a menacing set of skull and crossbones. Her unusual first name, however, does not have direct family roots. "One of my first boyfriends gave it to me," she explains. "When I graduated and moved out by myself, I figured it would be easier to take over the world with a name like that than a name like 'Jessica.'" HANNAH LEVIN