Kelly O

Trove is a little confusing. Brought to you by chefs Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi, who also run Seattle's beloved Joule and Revel, the 4,000-square-foot space is a quadripartite project, divided into Trove Parfait, Trove Noodle, Trove Bar, and Trove BBQ. The Trove complex is on the corner of Pike and Summit, where Brocklind's rented tuxedos and gorilla suits for 106 years (really). If you look at all uncertain when you walk in now, a helpful Trove employee will ask, "Are you here for noodles? Or barbecue? The bar?" And that's after you get past the Parfait window. Again, it's confusing... but here's what each part of Trove is all about.

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TROVE PARFAIT • Outside Trove's front door • Ice cream • $6 ($1 off if you bring back a jar) • 11 am–2 pm and 5–11 pm daily

Trove Parfait is inside the shell of a bedazzled ice-cream truck lettered "HYPNO MAGIC," "THE ONE THE ONLY THE VERY WOW BEST!!" and more (the Korean reads "Established in 2014"). The $6 jars of soft-serve come in "Old School" and "New School" flavors—e.g., Old School Snickers has peanut butter nougat, caramel peanuts, and dark chocolate sauce; New School contains black sesame cake, candied peanuts, and miso caramel. Everything's made in-house, including the ice-cream base (unlike at Molly Moon's). It's fun to excavate the different layers (peek through the side of the jar), and it all tastes great. I liked the Old School Snickers better than the New School version, due to the presence of chocolate sauce, but the candied peanuts in the latter were excitingly spicy, and both were excellently sweet-and-salty. Six dollars gets you a lot of parfait; you might even want to share with a not-too-greedy, close friend.

TROVE NOODLE • Just inside Trove's front door • Noodles, beer • $12/bowl • 11 am–2 pm and 4–11 pm daily

This bright, airy noodle counter is black and white and red all over, and it looks a little like a lab or a spaceship's cafeteria. Order from the cashier; the noodles are served in compostable bowls on shiny metal trays. The music is mostly drowned out by the sizzle and clatter of the clever dual-wok cooking station; tons of fresh noodles await their hot fate next to it. Right now, the chewy discs of rice cake with lamb curry and kale are superlative; so is the pork belly/chipotle pad thai, with skinnier, stickier, spicier noodles than usual. The pappardelle with slippery honshimeji mushrooms is also good, served al dente with a sweetish miso sauce contrasted with bitter greens. When I tried the yellow curry rigatoni, it was bland, but otherwise, the flavors are strong and the portions are healthy, so bring a friend and share. (The two tiny women chatting in Chinese who recently ordered five bowls and ate almost every noodle are clearly an anomaly.)

TROVE BAR • Slightly down the hall, on the left • Cocktails, beer/wine, noodles, ice cream • Cocktails and wine $10–$12 • 4–11 pm daily

You need to go into Trove Bar, if only to look at the crazy diorama of an erupting Mount Rainier, made by Electric Coffin (also responsible for Westward's crazy bar diorama). Look close—there are tiny people doing weird things in there. The cocktails tend toward the assertive: The Tacoma Fashioned tastes manly, with bourbon, Rainier Beer syrup, and Angostura and orange bitters, while the Pike St. Sour is tartly refreshing, with pisco, lemon, Amère Nouvelle, hopped grapefruit bitters, and house-made grenadine. Trove Bar is a more date-ready evening-time spot to order noodles and ice cream, but you can't get barbecue in here.

TROVE BBQ • All the way down the hall • Korean-style barbecue, drinks, ice cream • Small plates $4–$10, meats up to $100 for the "baller tower" • Sun–Thurs 5–10 pm, Fri–Sat 5–11 pm

Trove BBQ shares Noodle's black-and-white-and-red color scheme and clean, futuristic aesthetic—it's just a little fancier. The tabletop grills for DIY Korean-style barbecue are gleaming and spotless; silvery hood fans overhead suck up the smoke. No noodles here, sadly, but the octopus, white bean, and kale salad ($8) is a study in contrasting textures and tastes lovely (although it's overloaded with salty miso dressing), while the fish cake ($10), fried fish-'n'-chips style, is an unusual crispy-and-creamy treat. The kitchen will cook meat for you, but the fun's in slapping it down to sear on the grill, then eating it as hot as you can stand it. The raw meats are lush, fresh, fairly portioned for the prices ($8 to $12), and minimally marinated in sauces like kalbi, sweet-and-sour, and kasu. My Trove BBQ experience was salty overall, though only the gulf shrimp with nuoc cham were really overpowered. And yes, you have to pay for banchan, the little dishes of various pickled and spicy things that are gratis at traditional Korean barbecue places, but look around: This isn't Old Village in Shoreline. Enjoy the Spotify set to "retro urban" (A Tribe Called Quest, Eric B. & Rakim), see and be seen, and drink $3 Rainier tallboys to stay hydrated and save a little money. recommended