Abe Lebewohl was murdered on a brisk, windy March morning in 1996. He was robbed on Second Avenue in New York City's East Village, just a few blocks away from his restaurant, the beloved 2nd Avenue Deli, a Jewish institution on the Lower East Side since Lebewohl opened it in 1954. The 64-year-old was shot twice at close range, once in the head and once in the stomach. He was pronounced dead a few hours later.

The entire neighborhood sank into mourning. The restaurant was dark for days. For weeks, local papers speculated about the cold-blooded crime. And for those of us who were regulars at the deli--who had always found solace and nourishment in Lebewohl's latkes and kneydlekh (matzo balls)--we clipped the obituary from the Times. We paid our respects to Lebewohl's brother Jack, who took over the restaurant. And we returned at lunchtime for the brisket, for the blintzes, for the chopped liver on challah, and ate with heavy hearts.

When I left New York years later, Lebewohl's killers had still not been caught, despite a $101,000 reward and two full-time NYPD detectives on the case. The restaurant, however, continued to thrive. My last meal there was a bowl of chicken soup with an enormous, fluffy matzo ball. As I slurped, panic set in. I was not only leaving New York City... I was also leaving Abe Lebewohl's dining room. What was I doing? Where, in my new city, would I find comparable matzo ball soup, or stuffed cabbage, or beef cholent? Would I experience Jewish-food separation anxiety? Post-Traumatic Lox Deficiency?

Now I'm a few years older, a few pounds heavier, and much less melodramatic. But it's been forever since I've attended a proper Seder; I comb the QFC's dusty bottom shelves for any sign of Manischewitz products; and on certain Sunday mornings, I would trade an ovary for a good whitefish platter.

Last week, I went on a quest for matzo ball soup--in a city famous for its portside clam chowder (shellfish & milk: just about the most non-kashrut, or kosher, combination possible). I discovered precious few places that understood my longings.

ROXY'S DINER, 1329 First Ave at Union, 381-8800.

Matzo Ball Soup: A nice, self-assured stock with rich character and flecks of aromatic dill and parsley. A huge, chicken-flavored matzo ball bobs around, spoon-tender and ready to disperse into matzo flurries. ($1.95/$2.95)

Honorable Mentions: Classic Jewish deli offerings like corned beef, hot pastrami, egg salad, tongue, and lox. A decent stuffed cabbage ($5.95), but I cannot recommend the latkes ($3.95) with good conscience (they tasted more of frying oil than potatoes).

THE BUFFALO DELI, 2123B First Ave in Belltown, 728-8759.

Matzo Ball Soup: The Buffalo's "New York Penicillin" is busy and less subtle than other versions--crowded with hunks of celery, carrots (unpeeled... why?), and large torn pieces of meat fighting for attention in a bowl of mild broth, unstrained for that authentic "chicken" look. ($2.95/$4.50)

Honorable Mentions: These guys are the kindest counter staff in all of downtown.

ZEENA'S, 1320 Madison on First Hill, 328-3993.

Matzo Ball Soup: Zeena's broth is really, really salty. This is not necessarily a bad thing. The soup is still hearty and tastes homemade. Generous bites of chicken and veggies compete with little matzo balls, firm and textured. ($3.95)

Honorable Mentions: The menu actually offers matzo brei ($7.95), a favorite breakfast of mine: eggs gently scrambled with crumbled matzos served with warm maple syrup and berry preserves. Zeena's matzo brei, in all honesty, is a little dry and weird--I think the kitchen forgets to pour boiling water over the matzo bits before cooking them with the eggs--but beggars can't be choosers.

LEAH'S, 2114 NE 65th St in Ravenna, 985-2647.

Matzo Ball Soup: Taste one of Leah's matzo balls and taste neschume, its soul. This is soup with a stalwart, delicious soul. Pillowy kneydlekh and bright yellow stock with bona fide circles of chicken grease will lull you into a happy sleep. ($1.95/$3.50)

Honorable Mentions: Sweet, eggy loaves of sturdy challah; rugelach, mandelbrot, and flawless chocolate babka ($8.95); and a moist, intense apple crown cake ($10.95, seven-inch pan). I nearly wept when I tried Leah's knishes and lukshn kugel (or noodle pudding--"kugel" translates as "pudding," but think casserole, really).

KOSHER DELIGHT, 1509 First Ave at Pike Place Market, 682-8140.

Matzo Ball Soup: By far, my favorite. This PERFECT BROTH--infused with chicken (skin on! yay!) and minced herbs and carrots and celery--is so silky, so complex, the bold mushroom flavors from the stock filled my mouth long after I swallowed. The matzo balls practically dissolved on my tongue. (Trust me, you'll want the large for $7.95.)

Honorable Mentions: Chopped liver ($5.95) and whitefish ($4.95) that rivals Mr. Lebewohl's, God rest his soul. Old-school egg salad and lox platter. Addicting sour pickles the size of my face. As I ate at the counter in this warm, tiny pocket of space and looked out the window onto First Ave, the gigantic electronic billboard at Déjà Vu flashed "Girls! Girls! Girls!" A most strange and satisfying experience.

Abe Lebewohl's spirit--and his amazing kneydlekh--lives on in The 2nd Avenue Deli Cookbook: Recipes and Memories from Abe Lebewohl's Legendary New York Kitchen (Villard).