Burrito Express
12339 15th Ave NE, 364-0865
Open daily, 11 am-8 pm.

Many a Northgater has likely driven near the little yellow Burrito Express house on 15th Avenue NE, considered stopping in, then kept on going. There's something about that name--it sounds more at home in a food court. But what's wrong with a little truth in advertising? Fast takeout burritos are the specialty here, after all. Oh, and drinks: Burrito Express' homemade Jamaica and horchata ($1.50) are both excellent. More sour/bitter than sweet, the ruby-colored Jamaica (brewed from hibiscus flowers) resembles a complicated, grown-up Kool-Aid, and sweet-freaks will love the milky-white horchata (made with rice and cinnamon), which goes down like a tall, cool glass of powdered sugar. As for the burritos, they come with rice, black beans, lettuce, Monterey jack, and a choice of hot sauces, plus the restaurant's secret weapon: a fresh, medium-spicy pico de gallo (tomatoes, onions, peppers, cilantro) that can whup most others for sheer unabashed flavor. There's a variety of exotic-sounding fillings available, too--BBQ beef brisket, pork or beef sirloin asado, fish "Española," homemade chorizo, shrimp ceviche ($6.95)--but unfortunately only the shredded chicken or spicy beef options ($5.95) are worth the price. Which brings me to my gripe about this place. All the menu items--soft tacos, quesadillas, enchiladas--seem a tad too expensive, and only the burritos (and maybe the tostada salads) come in portions one could reasonably call a meal. Why so skimpy, Burrito Express? It's not like you're ladling gold into them thar tortillas! My dining buddy put it best: If you're running a low-overhead takeout joint that serves simple food and is dependent on repeat business, the last thing you do is charge too much for too little. So please, Burrito Express, I beg you: Be generous to your customers. After all, they, like children, are your future.