For a perfectly elegant yet perfectly comfortable happy hour in Belltown, head to Wasabi Bistro, whose newly expanded lounge is a model of clean, laid-back swank. Happy hour--4:00 to 6:00 p.m. daily--draws a steady after-work crowd, but the superfriendly service doesn't discriminate between those in suits and those in hoodies. Added bonuses: nightly drink specials, a fully stocked bar, and complimentary edamame. DAVID SCHMADER