Years later, Brazil brought herself to me. Fate would have it that the northernmost section of the U-District's Ave boasts not one, but now two Brazilian restaurants--the only two Brazilian restaurants in Washington state. Tempero do Brasil (5628 University Way NE) has already earned its solid reputation for delicious Brazilian classics. Newcomer Caffé Brazil recently opened a few blocks away.
I stumbled in on a Tuesday afternoon, two hungry toddlers in tow. My fellow crabby mama and I were relieved to find the restaurant's TV tuned to a pro soccer game; and the few patrons that were assembled were eyeing the screen as the game announcer bellowed, "Goooooooaaaaaaaalllll!!!" as only South American sportscasters can.
While the kids entertained themselves tap-dancing on the tiny stage (Caffé Brazil features live Brazilian music Friday and Saturday nights and Sunday afternoons) with Venetian-blind cords wrapped around their little necks, we sipped tiny cups of potent cafézinho ($1!). As tables began to fill up with customers, friendly Portuguese conversation hummed over sounds from the television. Although everyone else munched on sandwiches or croquettes, our table ordered up a lunch feast.
The quibe ($1.50), ground beef-and-onion croquettes with garlic and plenty of fresh mint, was a big a hit. I preferred the quibe's lightly fried crust of mashed potatoes to the slightly rubberized (from microwaving?) pastry of the beef esfiha ($1.50). Our Salada Mista Caffé Brazil ($4.95) was no frou-frou, nouveau, wild-wilted-dandelion-greens number. More of a Brazilian chef's salad, the iceberg lettuce held up a heavy load of palm hearts, ham, carrots, and cheese. The oil, lime, and cilantro dressing zipped up what could have been another boring iceberg extravaganza, and I was surprised to find it very refreshing, while grubby little toddler fingers grabbed at strips of ham.
Caffé Brazil's specialty, Frango à Moda Cidinha ($10.95)--saucy, roasted chicken served up with buttery rice, okra, and black beans topped with corn pudding--provided a tasty, satisfying meal, but the feijao tropeiro ($10.95) caught my fancy with its rich layering of pork, THREE WAYS: First there is the grilled pork (#1), nestled atop fluffy rice. Snuggled up next to that is a happy collaboration of beans, shards of crisp bacon (#2), smoky pork sausage (#3), thinly sliced collard greens, and cilantro, along with laurel and manioc (tapioca) flour.
For dessert, we tucked away mousse de maracujá ($3), an achingly, gloriously sweet passion-fruit mousse, which we washed down with cashew-fruit juice ($2.25). All the dishes we sampled were balanced with garnishes of cilantro and lime and green onions, infusing our Brazilian favorites with a fresh tang. And prices are affordable: $3.50 and up for sandwiches; platter-sized entrées hovering in the $8-$11 range; and the seafood and weekly specials running at $12.95.
I'm already planning my return on a leisurely, music-accompanied Sunday afternoon. I think I'll have the moqueca de peixe ($12.95)--halibut stewed with coconut milk, lime juice, and palm oil, resplendent with fresh vegetables.
Caffé Brazil
5259 University Way NE, 525-1993.
Tues-Thurs 11 am-9 pm, Fri-Sat 11 am-11 pm, Sun 11 am-8 pm, closed Mondays. $.
Price Scale (per entrée)
$ = $10 and under; $$ = $10-$20; $$$ = $20 and up.
