My family is quite Catholic, and we still say grace before eating together. I have many memories involving religious holidays and food—Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve followed by an ill-advised late-night meal, the all-day Christmas buffet, whole fried fish on Fridays during Lent. But I can't remember what we ate on Easter Sunday, the one day when church was unbearably hot and filled with people—in suits, stiff white dresses, and hats—who weren't usually there. Did we really not have a special meal to celebrate the resurrection of Christ? A quick call to my dad clears everything up: "No. We didn't do anything special. Maybe some ham."

I blame my lack of "traditional" childhood Easter Sunday for the bizarre, sharp pang of longing to partake in the orgiastic buffet offered by Kaspars (19 W Harrison St, 298-0123) on Sunday, April 8. From 9 am to 2 pm ($36 for adults, $15 for kids age 7–14, free for the 6-and-under set), Kaspars Easter Brunch features a ridiculous array of deliciousness, including country pâté with pear and fig chutney, peppercorn beef tenderloin,poached eggs benedict with dill hollandaise, Belgian waffles, roasted leg of lamb, pork loin roast, crème brulée, and a cookie tower (?!). If a mile-long buffet isn't your bag, try the sublime Frenchiness (scrambled eggs with black truffles! Lamb and sweetbread sausage!) of the Easter brunch at Campagne (86 Pine St, 728-2800), or the sweet, simple, soul-warming breakfasts at the Silver Fork (3800 Rainier Ave S, 721-5171).