Kathryn Schuessler

Description: Gainsbourg is a lively Greenwood lounge with dark-red walls, hazy lights, and antique tchotchkes adding a little elegance—though nothing is unreasonably fancy. The dinnerware is precious but mismatched, and a patchwork of carefully exposed brick and plaster imparts a Vegasy old-world feeling. The owners, taking a glass-half-full approach to a kitchen fire, did a little remodeling recently; the place is back up and running, and an official grand reopening party with Dave Bazan and Kaylee Cole is set for Saturday, January 28.

Namesake: Serge Gainsbourg was a French musician and hooligan playboy who behaved in ways that were very good and very bad—because he was very clever and very human. His songs were deep but catchy, and he layered some with a woman's quivery breathing. (In "Je T'Aime... Moi Non Plus," she's getting laid. In "Je Suis Venu Te Dire Que Je M'En Vais," she's crying because he's leaving.) Don't watch the live television clip of Gainsbourg with Whitney Houston—he tells the host, "I want to fuck her," she looks uncomfortable, and he's clearly drunk. And "Lemon Incest" is a duet with his 12-year-old daughter. The video shows them lounging uneasily in a futuristic '80s landscape, neither indoors nor outdoors, with volcanic rocks, dry ice, and geometric shapes. He's topless, she's pantsless, and although they're on a bed together, the action never quite happens, and her singing is just terrible.

Happy hours: Tues–Sun 4–6 pm (food specials only) and 11 pm–close, Mon 4 pm–close.

Happy-hour drink specials: $2 off wells, $1 off wine, beer ($3 Kronenbourg, $4 Zywiec), and select cocktails ($9 Versailles, made with Chalfonte cognac, grapefruit juice, Lillet, and bitters).

Happy-hour food specials: $3 beet salad, $3 escargot, $6 Gainsbourger (beef/lamb burger with caramelized onions and Dijon on baguette), more. recommended